The bazaar is nearly empty on what should be one of the busiest shopping days of the year.
A few municipal decorations hang from streetlights, the only visible reminder that Sunday marks Yalda Night, the ancient celebration of the winter solstice.
In this predominantly Kurdish city in northwestern Iran, the longest night of the year arrives with little fanfare.
Shoppers trickle past fruit stands offering pomegranates - a traditional symbol of fertility and rebirth - but few pause to buy.
The usual pre-celebration rush of customers loading bags with nuts, dried fruits, and sweets is absent.
“People are calculating carefully,” a shopkeeper told IranWire. “They’re waiting for their ration cards to be recharged so they can buy at least their necessities. When oil and rice are priorities, nuts fall to the bottom of the list.”
Yalda Night, observed on the longest night of the year, dates back more than 5,000 years to ancient Zoroastrian traditions.
Families traditionally gather to eat watermelon and pomegranates, read poetry by the 14th-century poet Hafez, and stay awake until dawn to welcome the sun’s return.
The celebration marks the triumph of light over darkness.
But in Saqqez, a city of roughly 230,000 people located about 595 kilometers west of Tehran, this year’s celebration reflects deepening economic divisions alongside cultural resilience.
Iran’s economy has faced mounting challenges from international sanctions, inflation that exceeded 40 per cent earlier this year, and sharp currency devaluation.
Many Iranians now rely on government-subsidized ration cards to purchase basic staples such as cooking oil, rice, and chicken at affordable prices.
The economic strain is evident in Saqqez’s muted preparations.
Where families once bought several kilos of mixed nuts and a variety of fruits, many now settle for a kilo or two of pomegranates, small quantities of simple nuts, or just seeds.
Yet the economic hardship is not universal. A local tailor described working around the clock with two employees to complete custom Yalda outfits for clients.
“For a week, my two workers and I have been working day and night,” the tailor said. “Some nights we didn’t go home at all to deliver the special Yalda outfits.”
The tailor acknowledged the disparity. “There are many people struggling to meet even their basic needs, but in our profession, we also see the other side of society.”
The contrast between those who can afford elaborate celebrations and those struggling for essentials highlights the widening wealth gap in Iranian society.
While some residents don Yalda-themed clothing and plan extensive gatherings, others debate whether they can afford even a simple meal.
Despite the economic pressure, families remain committed to gathering. For many in Saqqez, the essence of Yalda transcends material display.
“We don’t believe in extravagant tables,” one resident said. “A regular dish like dolmeh, one or two types of fruit, and at most some seeds.
“The essence of Yalda for us is being together in our ancestral home, something that may not happen again for months, and that is what makes our hearts happy.”
The celebration has taken on added cultural significance in Saqqez, which drew international attention in 2022 as the hometown of Mahsa Amini.
The 22-year-old woman died in police custody after being arrested for allegedly violating Iran’s mandatory hijab rules, sparking nationwide protests.
In Saheb, a district of Saqqez, cultural activists organized a three-night program celebrating Kurdish traditions around the winter solstice.
Elderly residents sat with younger generations, sharing memories, singing Kurdish songs, and reviving traditional narratives.
Organizers issued a statement emphasizing cultural identity and aspirations for recognition.
“Now that we are trying to be recognized like other nations and have a name in the world, we are waiting for the day we reach our aspirations and stand alongside free nations,” the statement said. “Our cry is this: don’t abandon us - we too are a nation like you and have the right to live like you.”
These grassroots cultural programs represent efforts to preserve tradition amid economic hardship and political restrictions.
By blending ancient Persian customs with Kurdish language and music, organizers assert cultural identity while maintaining ties to a shared Iranian heritage.
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