The Pahlavan's House

"This old courtyard, with its brick columns, turquoise pool, and arched windows into five-door rooms, was once the home of pahlavan [wrestling champion] Razaz. Now, it’s been turned into a guesthouse in one of the oldest neighborhoods in Tehran, namely Oudlajan."

So writes a citizen journalist who sent us a few photos of this beautiful old house, built in the Qajari period. It was once the home of Seyed Hassan Razaz, a semi-mythical athlete born in 1853 who went on to earn the first title of Varzesh-e Pahlavani (traditional wrestling champion) of the modern era. It was said that whenever Razaz entered the zurkhaneh, the ages-old training grounds of wrestlers and warriors in Iran, a bell was rung in his honor. But he came from once-humble roots: the family name, Razaz, denotes a seller of rice.

Pahlavan Razaz was known for his good deeds during both the Qajar and Pahlavi eras. He did in March 1942 and was buried in the 800-year-old Ibn Babawayh Cemetery in Tehran. His fame has stood the test of time, and admirers went to the Endowment Office as recently as last year to commit themselves to building a new tomb for him.

Another of Iran’s Pahlavans, a veteran of the zurkhanehs, told our journalist about the importance of this sport in Iranian heritage. "Unfortunately, he died before I was born," he said of Pahlavan Razaz. "But I heard many good things about him from the elders.

“Everyone remembers him well. The fact that he was a champion in sports as well as taking part in political and social activities for the welfare of the people made him a hero. Thank God, now his house in Oudlajan has become the Pahlevan Razaz Guest House, and his name remains in the minds of the new generation.”

He went on: "The elders say that for as long as Pahlavan Razaz was alive, the sound of bells ringing in his house filled the whole neighborhood. Even now, in memory of his good name, his robe and medals are still hanging on the walls of his house.

"In our country, many officials say they are interested in ancient sports and wrestling, but the budgets are spent on football and the ancient sports are becoming more isolated by the day. At least one tomb has been promised for our hero, if not the rest.”